In fine-dining restaurants, two stories are being told. “This is the only thing that I allow myself, to buy a coffee on my day off,” they said, “because I cannot afford anything else.” This person was so afraid of losing their job by speaking to me that they asked not only to be anonymous, but for their nationality and gender to be obscured as well.Īfter we had been speaking for half an hour about their struggles to feed themselves on low wages and having their work hours constantly cut at short notice, they looked down at their empty mug. The following afternoon, still full, I went to a café to meet a kitchen worker at another high-end Copenhagen restaurant. One course came with its own mother of pearl spoon. I ate them with heavy cutlery that came from a dark wooden drawer built into the table that opened and closed noiselessly. I was halfway through a 16-course tasting menu of Korean-inflected Nordic cuisine at a fine-dining restaurant in Copenhagen called Koan at Relæ.Įach dish, including oyster tempura resting on burnished black pebbles and a smooth pool of cream and langoustine sauce, banked by minced Jerusalem artichoke and a local caviar supplier’s “platinum selection”, had been fantastically delicate. “We recommend you eat this dish in seven bites,” the waiter said, before gliding away to serve another table.
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